Still crowded, still the same

My memory of the 6th Avenue at Besant Nagar is that of a wide road, crowded with every demographic category that inhabits Chennai. There was always a variety of everything - age groups, genders, clothes, colours, you name a parameter and you could get both extremes and a lot in between, if you were hanging out along 6th Avenue. The road itself runs parallel to Elliots Beach for about a kilometre-and-a-half. That's a straight stretch, where the motorcycles could show off their pick-up, speed or any kind of calisthenics its rider was inclined to do. And hey, if you were cool, you had to be there on Sunday evenings.

It is surprising how some of those images refuse to go away, even after quite a few years. The Sardar at Cozee Corner reeling off Tamil far more fluently than I could; the lone policeman trying to get a look at the number plate of an RX-100 that did a more-than-usually-noisy wheelie; young couples shutting out the rest of the world by staring ardently at each others' toes as they walked the length of the road - all of these jumped into my mind's eye as I neared the beach on a Sunday, a few weeks ago.

But it was morning, not evening. 6th Avenue was deserted. Even Barista, with its orange board bright in the sunshine, seemed to be drooping off. But it was nice to see it this way. Now I have a reason to come back some other Sunday, in the evening and see for myself that nothing has actually changed on this street!

Every end is a beginning

One of the most undisturbed areas within Chennai city is the contiguous stretch of scrub forest that runs across quite a bit of the Guindy area. On the northern side of Sardar Patel Road, the forest land has been carved up into small bits; with further landscaping, the character of the greenery has changed completely and makes for nice viewing through the PWD offices, the Anna University and the CLRI. On the southern side, however, a large part of the forest land was protected by it having been made a National Park. And with only two other institutions (the IIT Madras and the Raj Bhavan) on either side of it, the Guindy National Park (GNP) continues to be part of the great green lung of Chennai.

Not everyone gets to go into the GNP; it is actually somewhat wild and it is quite easy to get lost inside! However, a small part of the Park is given over to the Children's Park (set aside under instructions from Jawaharlal Nehru, India's first Prime Minister) and the Snake Park (which was the birthplace of the Madras Crocodile Bank Trust - a bit more about that here). Both these are very popular - not all the criticism they get is justified, though they can be run much better - and are therefore crowded almost every day. And in the company of excited kids, adults might also turn adventurous and go through gates without realizing where they lead to. This sign, next to a gate opening out from the Children's Park into the 'wild' part of the GNP, helps to warn off such well-meaning but ill-equipped adverturers!

New York, New York

I really didn't have too many excuses to not visit The Landmarks of New York. My best excuse was trumped when these landmarks came to Chennai; and they came so close to where I work, that I could not miss them even if I wanted to. There were about 80 of these landmarks, all in black and white, framed, with descriptions on the cultural, historic or architectural significance of these. All of them were photos taken by Barbaralee Diamonstein-Spielvogel, who was at one time chairperson of the New York City Landmarks Preservation Foundation.

The photographs themselves were excellent, but what was more impressive was the idea of a 'Landmarks Law'. In essence, a building that's over 30 years qualifies to be a landmark, if it can be demonstrated that it has a lasting cultural, aesthetic or historic value, is declared a landmark and protected from demolition. All the while, the owners of such buildings can continue to use and maintain their properties. Today the New York City Landmarks Law covers not only buildings, but also signs, neighbourhoods and public use land.

Maybe the existence of such legislation could have deterred the state Public Works Department from demolishing the 250 year old Government House last month. The demolition went ahead with only a few protests, mainly because the building was set back inside the Omandur estate, shielded from public view. There are many more such vulnerable structures in Chennai, that could well do with the protection provided by a 'Landmarks Law'!

A blackbuck meeting

On May 12, 1978, Mr. Vivek Kunte brought together sixteen of Chennai's nature enthusiasts together to form the Madras Naturalists' Society. Not much is documented about the early days, but the Society has grown to about 300 current members, whose interests span almost every aspect of nature and the environment.

Over the past 4 months since I joined the Society, there have been quite a range of events: a birdwatching basics camp, two 'Tree Walks', a couple of field trips, participating in a census at the Guindy National Park - I end up feeling sad that, despite joining this Society with all good intentions, I'm still not able to take out time for all the varied activities that are on offer.

Yesterday was the formal (mandated by law) annual meeting of the Society. The accounts for the last financial year were accepted, the Society's office bearers elected and some animated discussions on its direction for the next 30 years were conducted, over a couple of hours. But by the time we thought about taking a picture, many of the members had left - so here are those who stayed on to continue talking about all kinds of flora and fauna!

Now where have I seen that before...

Oh yes, I know this is not an original idea. The concept has been around for a while now. I can't remember when this one first came up, but I am sure that the idea for this hoarding came from an ad for some adhesive brand where a car was stuck to a billboard. I used to remember both - the car as well as the adhesive - brands and now I can't recall either! Google has also failed me this time. Does anyone know what I am talking about?

It's okay if you don't because you can then substitute this one. Hindustan Motors manufactures some models of Mitsubishi cars for the Indian market; they also manufacture some earthmoving equipment for Caterpillar. In front of their sales office, they have stuck one of each - a Mitsubishi Cedia and a Caterpillar backhoe loader - on low hoardings. As you drive in to the city from the airport, the car is easily noticed; the Cat is slightly hidden from view and you have to know where to look if you want to see it.

But that still doesn't take away the question... where did I see this before?

PS: Ottayan, Dan, Ravindran, Magiceye, Ram - I've figured out what that 'football' was all about - and I've updated that post!

Turn left at the clock face

Chennai, through the last 50 years or so, has been quite non-experimental in its architechture. There was so much sameness about the buildings, residential or commercial. All buildings were blocks. I would love to build up evidence of inspirational building design from Chennai, but I am hardpressed to think of examples.

Which is a big reason why I like this building. Anyone who is remotely familiar with designs of Tamil Nadu temples will immediately recognize the sweep of the gopuram as being the design kernel for this building. Even you are unfamiliar with the temples and their architecture, the building's name - Temple Tower - gives you a major clue.

Taking off from the Chennai airport, the flight to Bangalore heads out in north-easterly fashion. Looking out from the cabin, as you try to spot familiar landmarks, Temple Tower soon comes into view. And I know that the moment you are able to spot the clock face on top of the building, it is time to make a left turn: a-ha, I make a good pilot!

(Oops! I should be saying 'turn to port', shouldn't I?)

Our man for Zambia

The Tamil Nadu state government website lists only 15 'embassies' in Chennai - some of them are honorary consuls, but only one is listed as such. The website of the Union Ministry of External Affairs lists 25 honorary consuls as being present in Chennai. Neither of these websites have updated the events that led to this small board coming up on Nungambakkam High Road at the end of May 2008.

The Hindu did report the setting up of this honorary consulate. Mr S.R.Krishnan, who occupies at least part of the 2nd floor of Rosy Tower, has been described as the "the right person in the right place at the right time" by the High Commissioner. It took a bit of poking around to find out that Mr. Krishnan is a Director in a steel company. He must have been engaging quite a bit with the country - it is heartening to find that someone in Chennai has been doing so much work in Zambia, that the country has appointed him its honorary consul here!

Something more than 'very fine'?

When this sign came up outside a house on Chittaranjan Road, it seemed like someone had started a part-time business from a garage. Within a couple of days, the same sign was outside a shop on Eldams Road - now it looked like they meant business! But expanding so quickly?

Discovered later that M'zuri Sana - the internet tells me it means 'very fine', but I'm sure I was given a different (and better sounding) interpretation of this Swahili phrase at the store - is a chain founded by a person from Jodhpur, with stores in many cities. That was surprising, but more surprising was the variety of merchandise that was on display, from lampshades to garments. Quite a nice range to look at - and the people at the store let you take your time.

I will be back there soon, even though I have a crib about the store. With a name like M'zuri Sana, one walks in expecting to take back something distinctly African. But every one of the items is robustly Indian in design - and all of them have been crafted at M'zuri Sana's Jodhpur workshops!

Out of fuel

It had to happen. Over the past couple of months, there have been reports - and rumours - of petrol bunks refusing to pump regular petrol, but forcing people to buy the more expensive premium brands. Erratic supply of petrol and diesel had resulted in stock-outs at a few of the bunks. However, since Monday evening, the fuel supply system to the city was thrown completely out of whack. Vehicles began to tank up, fearful of running dry; seeing the queues, more vehicles joined them, 'just in case'.

Last morning the queues began early; by about 9 o'clock, traffic had become completely messy, with everyone trying to squeeze into the nearest petrol bunk. Apart from the traffic police, other units were also brought in at some bunks to protect them from the wrath of the waiting crowd, when they actually emptied their stocks. Things were looking somewhat dangerous as other cities in the state also began to report shortages.

Thankfully, the fevers eased off a bit with the announcement that about 25% more fuel than normal was being sent in to Chennai on Wednesday - and also the news that a tanker with 30,000 kilolitres of diesel was berthing at Chennai port on Tuesday evening. I wonder if all the trucks had gone directly to the docks for their fuel supply!

Stop it right there!

In the days before all citizens became fitness conscious, the only folks who jogged were either athletes or military servicemen. For the troops stationed at the St Thomas Mount cantonment, the hill near their barracks must have been a challenging objective - they would have taken bets on racing each other up and down, showing off their fitness!

For a while, the hill was one of the stations of an annual cross-country run. The church authorities did not mind it as long as it was once a year. But the fitness wave of the 80s washed up a lot of huffing, puffing, sweaty joggers to the top of the hill; the churchmen then decided to turn them away, at least from the immediate surroundings of the holy shrine.

And that rule continues to hold today. So - no bending or stretching as you walk in through these gates, ladies and gentlemen!

There is a bunch of us out here who keep posting photos of the places we live in. And we mark the 1st of every month with posts/photos on a common theme! Here's where you can find the thumbnails from all the 172 participants of the July 2008 theme day:

Click'>http://www.citydailyphoto.com/portal/themes_archive.php?tid=16">Click here to view thumbnails for all participants

And if you would like to browse the complete list of participants, here it is!

American Fork (UT), USA by Annie, Anderson (SC), USA by Lessie, Ararat, Australia by freefalling, Arradon, France by Alice, Ashton under Lyne, UK by Pennine, Aspen (CO), USA by IamMBB, Athens, Greece by Debbie, Auckland, New Zealand by Lachezar, Austin (TX), USA by LB, Avignon, France by Nathalie, Bandung, Indonesia by Harry Makertia, Barrow-in-Furness, UK by Enitharmon, Barton (VT), USA by Andree, Belgrade, Serbia by Bibi, Bellefonte (PA), USA by Barb-n-PA, Bicheno, Australia by Greg, Birmingham (AL), USA by VJ, Bogor, Indonesia by Gagah, Boston (MA), USA by Cluelessinboston, Brantford (ON), Canada by Nancy, Brighton, UK by Harvey, Brookville (OH), USA by Abraham, Bucaramanga, Colombia by Fernando, Bucharest, Romania by Malpraxis, Budapest, Hungary by agrajag, Budapest, Hungary by Zannnie and Zsolt, Canterbury, UK by Rose, Cavite, Philippines by Steven Que, Chandler (AZ), USA by Melindaduff, Château-Gontier, France by Laurent, Cheltenham, UK by Marley, Chennai, India by Shantaram, Chennai, India by Ram N, Chesapeake (VA), USA by ptowngirl, Christchurch, New Zealand by Michelle, Cincinnati, USA by Erik Laursen, Cleveland (OH), USA by iBlowfish, Coral Gables (FL), USA by Jnstropic, Corsicana (TX), USA by Lake Lady, Delta (CO), USA by Bill, Duluth (MN), USA by Sun Dog Press, Durban, South Africa by CrazyCow, East Gwillimbury, Canada by Your EG Tour Guide, Edinburgh, UK by Dido, Folkestone, UK by Piskie, Forks (WA), USA by Corinne, Fort Lauderdale (FL), USA by Gigi, Gaia, Portugal by m+p, Geneva (IL), USA by Kelly, Grenoble, France by Bleeding Orange, Gun Barrel City (TX), USA by Lake Lady, Hampton (VA), USA by ptowngirl, Haninge, Sweden by Steffe, Hanoi, Vietnam by Jérôme, Helsinki, Finland by Kaa, Hobart, Australia by Greg, Hyde, UK by Gerald, Jackson (MS), USA by Halcyon, Jefferson City (MO), USA by Chinamom2005, Jerusalem, Israel by Esther, Katonah (NY), USA by Inkster1, Knoxville (TN), USA by Knoxville Girl, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia by Edwin, Kyoto, Japan by Tadamine, Lakewood (OH), USA by mouse, Larchmont (NY), USA by Marie-Noyale, Las Vegas (NV), USA by Mo, Lisbon, Portugal by Maria João, London, UK by Mo, London, UK by Ham, Lynchburg (VA), USA by Timothy, Mainz, Germany by JB, Melbourne, Australia by John, Menton, France by Jilly, Mexico City, Mexico by Poly, Mexico City, Mexico by Carraol, Minneapolis (MN), USA by Mitch, Minneapolis (MN), USA by Greg, Misawa, Japan by misawa mama, Monroe (GA), USA by Tanya, Monrovia (CA), USA by Keith, Monte Carlo, Monaco by Jilly, Monterrey, Mexico by rafa, Mumbai, India by MumbaiiteAnu, Munich, Germany by Troy, Nashville (TN), USA by Chris, Nelson, New Zealand by Meg and Ben, New Delhi, India by Delhi Photo Diary, New Orleans (LA), USA by steve buser, New York City (NY), USA by • Eliane •, Newcastle, Australia by Julia, Newport News (VA), USA by ptowngirl, Norfolk (VA), USA by ptowngirl, Norwich, UK by Goddess888, Ocean Township (NJ), USA by Josy, Oklahoma City (OK), USA by ananda.tashie, Orlando (FL), USA by OrlFla, Palos Verdes (CA), USA by tash, Paris, France by Eric, Pasadena (CA), USA by Petrea, Pasadena (CA), USA by Can8ianben, Petaling Jaya, Malaysia by Murphy_jay, Petoskey (MI), USA by Christie, Phoenix (AZ), USA by Cheryl, Poplar Bluff (MO), USA by Tricia, Port Angeles (WA), USA by Jelvistar, Portland (ME), USA by Corey, Portsmouth (VA), USA by ptowngirl, Posadas, Argentina by Lega, Pretoria, South Africa by Sam Ruth, Quincy (MA), USA by Cluelessinboston, Ramsey, Isle of Man by babooshka, Reykjavik, Iceland by Vírgíll, Riga, Latvia by Riga Photos, Rotterdam, Netherlands by Ineke, Rouen, France by Bbsato, Saarbrücken, Germany by LadyDemeter, Saigon, Vietnam by Simon, Saint Louis (MO), USA by Strangetastes, Salem (OR), USA by jill, Salt Lake City (UT), USA by Eric, Salt Lake City (UT), USA by atc, San Antonio (TX), USA by Kramer, San Diego (CA), USA by Felicia, San Francisco (CA), USA by PFranson, Santa Fe (NM), USA by Randem, Seattle (WA), USA by Kim, Seattle (WA), USA by Chuck, Selma (AL), USA by RamblingRound, Sequim (WA), USA by Norma, Sesimbra, Portugal by Aldeia, Setúbal, Portugal by Maria Elisa, Sharon (CT), USA by Jenny, Silver Spring (MD), USA by John, Singapore, Singapore by Keropok, Sofia, Bulgaria by Antonia, Springfield (IL), USA by Aubrey, Stanwood (WA), USA by MaryBeth, Stavanger, Norway by Tanty, Stayton (OR), USA by Celine, Stockholm, Sweden by Stromsjo, Stouffville, Canada by Ken, Stratford, Canada by Barb, Subang Jaya, Malaysia by JC, Suffolk (VA), USA by ptowngirl, Sunshine Coast, Australia by bitingmidge, Sydney, Australia by Julie, Sydney, Australia by Ann, Székesfehérvár, Hungary by Teomo, Tamarindo, Costa Rica by David, Tel-Aviv, Israel by Olga, Tempe (AZ), USA by angie, Terrell (TX), USA by Jim K, Terrell (TX), USA by Bstexas, The Hague, Netherlands by Lezard, Tokyo, Japan by Tadamine, Torun, Poland by Glenn, Toulouse, France by Julia, Trujillo, Peru by Giulianna, Turin, Italy by Livio, Twin Cities (MN), USA by Slinger, Victoria, Canada by Benjamin Madison, Vienna, Austria by G_mirage2, Virginia Beach (VA), USA by ptowngirl, Wailea (HI), USA by Kuanyin, Washington (DC), USA by D.C. Confidential, Wellington, New Zealand by Jeremyb, West Paris (ME), USA by crittoria, West Sacramento (CA), USA by Barbara, Weston (FL), USA by WestonDailyPhoto, Williamsburg (VA), USA by ptowngirl, Willits (CA), USA by Elaine,

Cleared for landing

St. Thomas Mount is well known for quite a few reasons, not the least of which is the legend of it being the site of St. Thomas' martyrdom. There are many lesser reasons - one of which will appear tomorrow - but for me, the hill is associated with two images.

The first is of a huge cross, at the crest of the hill, almost at its very edge. That's my first memory of any kind of Christian image. But what was exciting about going up the hill was the wonderful view it gave of airplanes coming in to land - you stand at the the east end of the hilltop, sight the silhouette of the approaching plane, wait for it to go past you and then run across the church yard (more about the church another day) to watch it drop onto the runway of the Meenambakkam airport. Thirty years ago there were probably 4 landings a day - but during last week's trip up the hill, we saw 4 in the space of about half-an-hour.

And we watched this Sri Lankan airlines flight from Colombo, coming in from over the Bay of Bengal to the east, all the way through the last stage of its flight. There is not much of Chennai that can be identified in this picture, but I'm sure you'll take my word that it is indeed the city that was Madras!

Back to books

With many of the arts and science colleges under the University of Madras re-opening last week after their summer vacations, it is time to look at where it all started - the first building of the University, situated on the Marina Beach.

The University of Madras is one of the oldest in the country, having been set up in 1857 by the then Governer of the Madras Presidency, Rt Hon. Lord John Elphinstone. The first permanent building of the University was its Senate House, the designs for which were chosen through an open competition. The winner was Robert Fellowes Chisholm (who seems to have built half the buildings in Madras of that period), who designed it as a blend of Byzantine and Indo-Saracenic styles and then went ahead in sourcing the finest materials for its construction. Anything less may not have withstood the neglect heaped upon this heritage building through the 1970-2000 period.

But what we see today is a picture of what can be accomplished by committed authorities and benevolent alumni, working together with conservation and heritage experts. The Senate House was renovated - extensively and lovingly - in time for the 150th anniversary of the University. It is a wonderful sight today as it welcomes another batch of 'freshers' across the city!

Play it forever, Sam!

Field Marshal Sam Manekshaw, the first of only two officers to hold that rank in the Indian Army, died in Wellington (Tamil Nadu, India) early last morning. The 94-year old soldier's soldier had outflanked death at least once before; as a Captain in the Burma campaign during the II World War, he had taken a burst of machine gun bullets to his stomach. His condition was so precarious that he was awarded the Military Cross - that honour is not awarded posthumously - on the battlefield itself. But ever the fighter, he survived and went on to gather several more awards, including the Padma Vibhushan. And beyond all that, he was a man who lived his life to the full, with a smile under his mustache and a twinkle in his eye, whatever the occasion be.

I am unable to think of anything that specifically connects this proud soldier to Chennai - but then, anything to do with the Indian Army must have had something to do with its Field Marshal too. With that reasoning, here's a picture of the gateway to the Officers Training Academy, Chennai. I am sure 'Sam Bahadur' will be glad, because few others can have a better claim to having 'Served with Honour'!

Big brother

Though his term as Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu was among the shortest - just under two years, between 1967 and 1969 - C.N.Annadurai was a powerful force in the political arena of the state. So much so that there is almost no place in Chennai that does not have something or the other to do with the first non-Congress Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu.

Mount Road was renamed Anna Salai, after Annadurai's death in 1969. When the state government set up its first technological university in 1978, they named it Peraringar Anna Universtity of Technology (thankfully it was changed to Anna University later: imagine the credentialling agencies outside India - no, outside Tamil Nadu - trying to get their tongues around the earlier name! The Indian IT revolution may not have quite taken off!!). The first planned layout in Madras - Anna Nagar. We could go on playing this game, but you get the point.

Anna -that means 'elder brother' in Tamil - is certainly omnipresent. For quite a while, the state publicity cell even used the obelisk in his memorial on Marina Beach as their logo!

Euro fever?

"That's a special tower for transmission of secret messages". Once these words had been whispered, it was a big risk to ask anyone what it actually was, because you could then be the target of sustained cross-examination. This was the considered wisdom during school days, when this building came up to mark the centenary of the Madras Port. Therefore, like many other everyday sights, the 'football' on top of this building remains an unexplained oddity.

The Chennai Port Trust does encourage a lot of sporting activity; it is however improbable that they have placed this as a monument to their football legacy. Though I took this photograph a few weeks ago, I thought I would post it only after I have better information about what that globe is all about. Now, I feel that I would not get any wiser - the few people I have asked are irritated at me, for having teased their curiosity - and so, I hope posting this photo will at least bring up some plausible theories as to the purpose of the topping.

It is also Euro fever in a way: was watching the Germany - Turkey match last night when I remembered this photo!

Added on July 6, 2008: I've found out what that globe is for. A cousin who works for the Chennai Port Trust tells me that the globe houses a meteorological radar and other met equipment, since the docks need data on a more real-time basis than what the Met department provides!

Going around the city

Just at the south-western edge of the city, this road finally begins justifying its fancy name. For a fair stretch, as it struggles to get out of the city, the Grand Southern Trunk Road appears to be neither grand nor a trunk road. But leaving Tambaram behind, it climbs up to the NH (National Highway) 45 and screams away to the cities of south Tamil Nadu, finally taking the opportunity of showing off its adjectives.

But if you want to stay up north, you can drift left to the curve that takes you northbound and get on to the Chennai Bypass. And then, you can skirt along the western edge and choose to get back in to the city at Porur. Or you could go all the way to Maduraivoyal before making a decision to either go further west, on to Bangalore or to turn east and go up Poonamallee High Road all the way to Fort St George.

What would you choose to do today?

Ready for a ride

Some cities feature them as a tourist attraction. I remember reading about them waiting to take tourists around Central Park in New York City and I am sure some of the other great cities have them too. They probably serve as a reminder of the time when these vehicles were the swankiest transport available. Some other places have them as a viable transport alternative - fuelled by the tourist traffic, but not necessarily an attraction in themselves (think Agra, for example).

Chennai is neither here nor there; horse carriages as taxis probably did not last long enough for folks to start getting nostalgic about them. They were however used by a quite a few - the rich had their own chariot-like pieces, and the common man would share the cramped, roofed carriage. Today, in Chennai as in many other places, horse carriages are used for special occasions - typically, wedding processions. I passed by this one and then pulled over to wait for it; with new upholstery and the horses looking recently groomed, I am sure they had an engagement for the evening.

Neither the horses nor the carriage-man gave me a second glance. But then, none of the other passers-by, either on foot or in vehicles, cared to show any interest in this not-so-usual fellow traveller!

What are we doing here?

I'll start off by letting you in on a secret: this bird is not a common sight on the streets of Chennai. You knew that already? Okay then, tell me, where can we find ostriches in Chennai? If you said "Vandalur zoo", I'll have to excercise quizmaster's discretion and say "Wrong answer" - because that's not the answer I was looking for!

The Tamil Nadu Veterinary and Animal Sciences University (TANUVAS) carries out research on various kinds of animals at its Livestock Research Station at Kattupakkam. About ten years ago, they decided to extend their research to ostriches and figure out how they can be an addition to the diet of the locals. Of course, there are challenges to be overcome - climate, feed, breeding, not to mention acceptance of ostrich meat as an alternate to chicken - and it will take a while longer before ostrich breeding can become commercially viable. Until then, ostriches will remain an oddity in Chennai.

My last visit to the 'Ostrich Farm' was about four years ago. There are many more of the birds around now; hearteningly, the breeding programme has resulted in quite a few chicks. In the picture are a pair of sub-adult birds - the female seems to be too shy to show her face to the photographer!

Scotland on your ears

I remember being especially fascinated by two signs in my childhood. The first was outside the Officers Training Academy and said "Officers Mess". I couldn't understand why army officers would advertise their lapse into sloppiness in such fashion. The other one was much further away, in Egmore, and said "St. Andrew's Church. The Kirk". The last word sounded so much like 'kirukku' - Tamil for 'madness' - that I was worried about going near the place!

The Kirk reminds us that it was the British who were in India, not just the English. Dedicated in 1821, it was built mainly for the Scotsmen from the British Army and even today, continues to belong to the Scottish Presbyterian tradition. Apart from meeting the spiritual needs of its members, The Kirk was the home of Madras Christian College, one of the oldest colleges in the country.

The current administration has been undertaking a Master Restoration Programme to properly preserve the heritage of this wonderful building, as well as its continued use as a place of worship. And by doing so, they will continue to let Chennai residents learn their first Scottish word!

The grandfather of clocks

Though the bus stop sign says that time does not stop here, the building of P.Orr & Sons seems to have succeeded in pausing the clock for a long time. Another of the old Madras landmarks, it has been around for a hundred and twenty-five years and has aged far more gracefully than many of its contemporaries. There have been some modifications to Robert Chisholm's original design, including an additional turret over the clock-face, but the biggest change has been the shutting down of the workshops that were right behind the showroom.

Those workshops were once bustling: apart from selling watches, with which P.Orr is synonymous even today, the firm was also the leading goldsmith and jeweller, not just to Madras society, but across South India (and also Burma, Ceylon and Malaya). Over its life, it had also diversified into other businesses - engineering products, arms & ammunition, automobiles. It was probably the last that provided the bait for the Amalgamations Group to buy the firm in the late 1950s, though they hived it off in 1967 to Karumuthu Thiagaraja Chettiar, whose family continues to run the business.

P.Orr has expanded - apart from their flagship showroom here on Mount Road, they have 6 other branches; 4 in Chennai itself and 2 outside the city. Their current diversification into mobile phones is just to make sure they are up to speed on all ways of telling time!