This weekend I decided to make a second version of the Burda 09.2009.139 blouse, mainly to refine the pattern. The first version that I made was just fine...and wore well...but there were just a few things that I knew that I could do to make it better.
There were a couple of changes that I made from the original. First, I decided that I wanted to add a bit of room at hip level. While this top has a TON of ease across the bust (complete with gathers), at hip level it is a touch snug. Normally a 46 fits just fine, but in this second version I added a bit at the side seams.
Second, I decided to make this version using french seams. This took a little planning to make sure that I assembled it in the proper order to allow for the enclosed seams. Because I made this from a chiffon, I didn't want the interior seams to show at all. Here is a photo of the interior of the shirt:
Third, I used Pam Erny's Clean Finished No-Bulk Facing technique. I had to trace off a pattern piece for the interfacing using the shirt front. Fortunately, the Burda pattern indicated a fold line for the cut-on facing, so I used that as the edge of the interfacing pattern.
Finally, I wanted to find a way to use less fabric in making the shirt. Based on the Burda pattern instructions, 3.5 yards are necessary for the shirt. 3.5 yards is a LOT for a shirt. When I buy for "stash," I usually purchase 2 to 2.5 yards for a shirt, and 3.5 is what I normally purchase for a dress. Therefore, I had no pieces in my stash that were large enough for the second version.
If you look at the Burda layout, they do the neck tie in a single layer...and that one piece takes up half of the length of fabric:
For this version, I cut the neck tie so that it has a center back seam (which, interestingly, is present in the Burda line drawing). By doing this, I was able to get all the pattern pieces laid out on 2.5 yards of fabric.
One thing that I did find the instructions to be a bit vague on was the attachment of the shirt front to the front sleeve that would allow for the neck tie to be attached properly. To leave space for the attachment, the shirt front needs to be set back 5/8 inch.
This makes for a nice, clean intersection for the shirt front and the tie collar:
As before...I starched the heck out of the chiffon prior to laying out and cutting. That makes the fabric slither less while you are handling it...but also makes it hold a crease much better when pressing hems.
Finally, in the comments on the last blog, there were a few requests to see the shirt "On the Hoof," so to speak. Here is the last version ready to go to work:
One of my students even complimented me on it after class. Of course, that may just mean that they are afraid of the upcoming midterm.
I hope everyone had a great sewing weekend. I think I am now ready to move on to another pattern. I was going to work on a sweater dress this week to finish off my winter sewing, but today the temperature soared into the 60's. Now I just want to sew pink things...with short sleeves.
There are two words that can be used to describe me...cheap and picky. That means I often find myself getting in over my head with projects like curtains for all 32 windows in my house. Or deciding that I can build a fence, because they wouldn't rent large equipment if it didn't mean anyone could use it, right? Right?
Saturday, February 12, 2011
Saturday, February 5, 2011
Two New Tops
January was not a very productive month...between a crazy time at work, and a couple of bouts with the flu, I did not do very much at all. I finally did pull myself together towards the end and finish a second version of the Burda 12-2009-120 hoodie:
For this version, I used a length of slub rayon knit from Fabric.com rather than a sweater knit. I also added snaps to the front placket; I had some pearl snaps left over from a western shirt I made for my husband:
The first couple days of February we had some snow days and campus was closed, so I took advantage of the time to get started on a version of Burda 09.2009.139, a raglan sleeve blouse with pussy bow.
The pattern has some nice details like gathers on the bodice at the raglan seam...if you need it, it makes an FBA really easy, although Burda typically is drafted for a larger cup size than "The Big 4." I made it from a poly charmeuse, that came from the set of fabrics I put together for my Winter SWAP so many months ago.
A little hint for working with slithery poly, which I find irresistible due to the wonderful prints, even though I can only wear it in winter since poly is too hot for summer....
When you are ready to cut your pattern out, starch the heck out of the fabric. I hang the whole length of fabric over the shower rod and spray and spray....let it dry and then it will be super-easy to cut, press, and sew. Once you have the garment finished, throw it in the laundry to remove the starch and voila! Super-easy! No slithering!! The only thing that it makes difficult is using the narrow hem foot...but given that I have never truly mastered that foot, I typically just press in a 1/4" hem instead...and the starch makes pressing SO much easier.
Also, use a microtex needle to avoid pulls from a heavier needle, and if you use a buttonhole attachment, use a sheet of tissue on top to keep the attachment from snagging the fabric.
Anyway, on to the final photos....
This shirt has no darts for shaping, it is designed to be tucked in. I am not a "tucker," but I have come back to this pattern every time I flip through my old Burdas...finally, a year and a half later, I got around to tracing it off.
The neckline is open under the bow/collar:
The pattern has a cut-on facing, which makes the front shaping fairly simple. Here is a close-up of the raglan seams/gathers:
The sleeves are very full, which lots of gathers at the cuff:
I think it will look very nice with a pair of full-legged trousers, or even a high-waisted pencil skirt.
I was doing some organizing in the sewing room, trying to better organize my notions so the ones that I use the most are more convenient. I thought you might get a kick out of one of my most used notions, my hem gauge:
This came to me in the sewing chair when my grandmother gave me her sewing machine probably 15 years ago. Can you see the little label? "Penneys." Not even J. C. Penneys....it's that old! Not to mention, how long has it been since J. C. Penneys had a sewing department?
Hopefully this month I will have a chance to continue working on the SWAP I started in October...since I still have a bit of winter left.
Happy Sewing Everyone!
For this version, I used a length of slub rayon knit from Fabric.com rather than a sweater knit. I also added snaps to the front placket; I had some pearl snaps left over from a western shirt I made for my husband:
The first couple days of February we had some snow days and campus was closed, so I took advantage of the time to get started on a version of Burda 09.2009.139, a raglan sleeve blouse with pussy bow.
The pattern has some nice details like gathers on the bodice at the raglan seam...if you need it, it makes an FBA really easy, although Burda typically is drafted for a larger cup size than "The Big 4." I made it from a poly charmeuse, that came from the set of fabrics I put together for my Winter SWAP so many months ago.
A little hint for working with slithery poly, which I find irresistible due to the wonderful prints, even though I can only wear it in winter since poly is too hot for summer....
When you are ready to cut your pattern out, starch the heck out of the fabric. I hang the whole length of fabric over the shower rod and spray and spray....let it dry and then it will be super-easy to cut, press, and sew. Once you have the garment finished, throw it in the laundry to remove the starch and voila! Super-easy! No slithering!! The only thing that it makes difficult is using the narrow hem foot...but given that I have never truly mastered that foot, I typically just press in a 1/4" hem instead...and the starch makes pressing SO much easier.
Also, use a microtex needle to avoid pulls from a heavier needle, and if you use a buttonhole attachment, use a sheet of tissue on top to keep the attachment from snagging the fabric.
Anyway, on to the final photos....
This shirt has no darts for shaping, it is designed to be tucked in. I am not a "tucker," but I have come back to this pattern every time I flip through my old Burdas...finally, a year and a half later, I got around to tracing it off.
The neckline is open under the bow/collar:
The pattern has a cut-on facing, which makes the front shaping fairly simple. Here is a close-up of the raglan seams/gathers:
The sleeves are very full, which lots of gathers at the cuff:
I think it will look very nice with a pair of full-legged trousers, or even a high-waisted pencil skirt.
I was doing some organizing in the sewing room, trying to better organize my notions so the ones that I use the most are more convenient. I thought you might get a kick out of one of my most used notions, my hem gauge:
This came to me in the sewing chair when my grandmother gave me her sewing machine probably 15 years ago. Can you see the little label? "Penneys." Not even J. C. Penneys....it's that old! Not to mention, how long has it been since J. C. Penneys had a sewing department?
Hopefully this month I will have a chance to continue working on the SWAP I started in October...since I still have a bit of winter left.
Happy Sewing Everyone!
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