Is there a persimmon in your future?

Our 2015 Master Gardener Training class was getting a short lesson on different backyard fruits a couple of weeks ago.  One of those fruits was the persimmon.  While we have what is called the common or American  persimmon as a native tree here in Charlotte County, cultivated types brought from Asia in the mid 1800’s have far superior eating qualities.  Actually introduced by Commodore Perry in 1856, a good deal of work has been done since to evaluate cultivars.    A very uncommon fruit locally, persimmons are worth  a second look.

Originally from China, the persimmon is an under-used fruit tree that can grow here in Charlotte County in our 9b hardiness zone.  A deciduous tree growing no more than twenty-five feet in height, the persimmon produces orange conical to oblong fruit which are either considered astringent or non-astringent.  Astringent fruit, by their very nature, make your mouth feel dry and puckered to the taste until the fruit is fully ripe and soft.  Until that point,  the fruit is not suitable for eating.   Non-astringent types of persimmons produce fruit that can be eaten while still hard like an apple.  Additionally, some persimmons are seedless, while some have seeds, depending on the pollination situation, which can further affect the astringency and/or flavor.

Plant persimmon trees in well-drained soils in full sun sites.  After establishment, fertilize as you would a citrus tree with light fertilizations the first year.  After the first year, applications of fertilizer three times a year as per label instructions are sufficient.  Apply a mulch, (not right up against the tree), to suppress weeds and retain moisture.

What are best types for our area?  A persimmon named ‘Fuyu’ is perhaps the most popular non-astringent type in Florida.  It is so productive that thinning the fruit is often necessary.  The fruit is oblate in shape having a flattened, rounded form reminding you of a tomato at a glance. The fruit of  ‘Fuyu’  is generally ready to harvest from November to early December. The cultivar called ‘Tanenashi’, is a popular astringent cultivar recommended here in Florida for homeowners.  It can produce large crops of three and one-half inch yellow to orange  fruit  without any pollination.  The fruit is round and conical in shape.  Harvest the fruit from September to November. 

Cultivated persimmon trees are rarely available locally other than through specialty nurseries or family garden centers.  There are a few Internet nursery sources in Florida which you check out in any search engine.   We have one well-established persimmon that produced heavily last year.  The conical fruit (we are not sure of the cultivar) was sweet and very delicious.   With this success and other similar reports in Lee County, perhaps try a persimmon as an excellent dooryard tree this year.  For more information on all types of fruits trees suitable to grow in our area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc. (1996) Persimmon. 

E. P. Miller & T. E. Crocker (1994) Oriental Persimmons in Florida. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Gilman, E. F. & Watson, D. G. (2014) Diospyros virginiana: Common Persimmon. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Toxic plants aplenty

Plants are all around us and many of us  interact with them on a daily basis.   Some of these plants are noted to be toxic either by touch or ingestion.  Many of these plants are in our landscapes and some are used as houseplants.  Just knowing which plants are toxic is helpful to help you avoid or at least manage the risk.

As there are so many plants that can be toxic, and as some people may have individual allergic reactions not experienced by the general population,  only a few will be mentioned in this article.  The first set will be plants that have irritating sap which can cause problems to the skin.  One that comes to mind is the Pencil Cactus.   The Pencil Cactus is also called the  Milk Bush or Euphorbia tirucalli L..  The Pencil Cactus is a succulent, branching plant that can grow up to fifteen feet tall.   The sap is white in color and is extremely toxic and irritating  to the skin. It was even noted as being used as a fish poison in India.  Crown-of-thorns is another member of the Euphorbiaceae family that has milky, very irritating sap that can cause blisters.   There are several flowering shrubs in the genus Jatropha  (also in the Euphorbiaceae family) commonly found in many landscapes that have milky irritating sap and   toxic properties if consumed.  Look out for those Euphorbia’s!

Dieffenbachia is a common houseplant/patio plant with large colorful green and white patterned leaves emerging from a thick, central cane.  Also called "dumb cane", Dieffenbachia contains calcium oxalate, and if consumed,  produces irritation of the mucous membranes resulting in throat swelling and temporary loss of speech.  Almost everybody knows the flowering shrub Oleander.  Oleander is well known as toxic plant and all parts are considered poisonous if ingested. Even inhaling the smoke from burning oleander can cause poisoning.

Many gardeners plant lantana for their beautiful flowers that attract butterflies. The immature, green seeds of this plant are highly toxic, and the leaves are also highly toxic to animals. Even touching  lantana plants may cause skin irritation or allergic reactions in some people.

On occasion gardeners may grow ornamental selections of castor-beans.  Caster-beans contain a highly poisonous substance, ricin, as well as other toxic compounds.  The chemicals are more concentrated in the castor-bean seeds.  The Gloriosa Climbing lily is sometimes grown for its colorful and exotic–looking flowers.  The entire vining  plant contains toxic substances, and the underground tubers have the highest concentration. Death has been reported to occur within 4 hours after eating tubers of this plant.

In addition to the danger to humans, keep in mind that toxic plants can be an issue for pets and livestock.  As with any risk, use common sense, find out about the particular plants in your landscape and plant (plan) accordingly.  Precautions such as protective gloves and/or clothing may also help you avoid exposure if working with certain toxic plants.   If a human emergency occurs, contact resources such as the Florida Poison Information Center  at 1-800-222-1222, and/or your local Emergency Room.  Be smart and be careful!  For more information on all types of toxic plants, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Purple Trailing Lantana (2007) The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS - Baker County.
Florida Poison Information Center - http://www.poisoncentertampa.org/ .
Gardening in a Minute (2013) Lantana. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.
Christman, S. (2003) Jatropha integerrima. Floridata.com , Tallahassee, FL.
Marshall, D. (2015) Poisonous Plants. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS - Monroe County Extension.
Feser, C. (2007) Poison plants. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Collier County.
Ferrer, A. (2015) poisonous plants in the garden. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Seminole County.
Scheper, J. (2004) Lantana montevidensis Floridata.com , Tallahassee, FL.
http://www.poisoncentertampa.org/ - Florida Poison Information Center.

If we only had a time machine

If we only had a time machine we could actually go back in time and stop the introduction of the Brazilian Pepper-tree into Florida in the mid-1800’s.  This classic invasive plant went from an introduced coveted ornamental, to the one of the worst and most successful invasive plants in the state of Florida.  Well, we live and we learn as the Brazilian Pepper-tree is here to stay.  But, we can push back and take care of our corner of Florida with a number of management options that will help suppress this dastardly poison-ivy relative.  How can we control the Brazilian Pepper-tree?

It is funny how a plant that started out as an ornamental and was even called “Florida Holly” at one time eventually was discovered in natural areas in the late 1950’s.  Once the Brazilian pepper-tree began to dominate parts of south Florida, many began to classify this tree an invasive exotic – a Category I Invasive considered both noxious and prohibited by the State of Florida.  Found in south Florida, as well as in protected sites in central and northern Florida, Brazilian pepper-trees colonize natural areas in stands of trees up to thirty-three feet tall.   Groups of trees form a twisted canopy of branches shading out everything below.  The bright red fruits produced are scattered by birds and mammals just about everywhere.  The seeds have a great germination rate, survival potential, and rapid growth.  This “King of Invasives” is ready to produce seeds in as little as three years! 

Other than finding and hand-picking seedlings that appear on your property, perhaps the best management suggestion is the use of certain herbicides to kill mature trees. Keep in mind - even if you are clearing Brazilian pepper on your property - to make sure that you get a permit from the County Community Development  Department before proceeding.  As Brazilian pepper is related to poison-ivy, you will want to wear protective gear to guard against, not only the potentially irritating sap and leaves, but also

the pesticide.  Using products formulated for use by homeowners such as glyphosate or triclopyr, and making sure to read the label before application,  carefully apply these to cut stumps.  Apply the herbicide to the freshly cut stump just inside the bark where the living layer of cambium tissue will rapidly take up the chemical and translocate it to the roots.  It is very important that this application be made within five minutes of the cut as the stump will begin to seal itself up after that time and prevent good herbicide transfer.  If  someone other than the  homeowner were to apply herbicides, they would need to be a Certified Applicator and have insurance.

While the cut-stump method is very popular, a basal bark application helped with the use of a penetrating oil, will actually go through the bark and kill the tree.  Foliar applications can also be used for seedlings.  While there is a seed-eating wasp present that can reduce some Brazilian pepper reproduction, and there are several other insect controls being looked at, there are no breakthrough biological controls available at this time.

The Brazilian pepper-tree is apparently here to stay.   The best you can do is push it back off your own property with focused efforts and techniques. For more information on all types of invasive plants found in our area,  please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Gioeli, K. & Langeland,  K. (2015) Brazilian Pepper-tree Control.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Hall,  D. W., Vandiver, V. V.,  Sellers, B. A. & Langeland, K. A. (2012) Brazilian Pepper-tree, Schinus terebinthifolius. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Cuda, J.P., Medal, J.C.,. Overholt, W.A , Vitorino,  M. D., &. Habeck, D.H (2013) Classical Biological Control of Brazilian Peppertree (Schinus terebinthifolia) in Florida. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Cuda,  J. P., Wheeler,  G. S. & Habeck, D. H. (2014) Brazilian Peppertree Seed Chalcid, (unofficial common name) Megastigmus transvaalensis (Hymenoptera: Torymidae) .  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

2013  Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council - http://www.fleppc.org/list/FLEPPCPlantList2013-PRINTABLEwithlinkstoCAIPpages.pdf .  

Madagascar periwinkles rule

I know that I say it about a lot of flowers, but the Madagascar periwinkle is really something special.  This evergreen perennial is also sometimes called Vinca.  In addition to its original rose pink color, periwinkle flower colors range from white, red, purple, apricot and pink to bi-color blooms.  They don’t take a freeze well, but as far as summer bloomers that take the summer heat, these should be in your flower bed for 2015.

You can purchase ready-to-go plants or seeds to begin your periwinkle bed.  I started  some from a package of seeds last year and successfully had almost more than I could use.   Seeds take six to eight weeks to reach blooming size, so plan ahead.  A site in full sun with good drainage is required for periwinkles.  They do not like overly wet soil and root rots can develop – sometimes foliar diseases develop as well.  Three good months of blooming is a reasonable goal for this plant.

All is not always well in Periwinkle-Ville!  As mentioned earlier, although very heat tolerant, periwinkles do not like to be too wet. The arrival of heavy summer rains may promote and trigger a variety of fungal diseases that can take your periwinkles down.  Fortunately, if you have had  problems with mid-summer periwinkle failures,  there is a variety called ‘Cora’ which has bred-in foliage disease resistance.  ‘Cora’ periwinkles come in a good number of colors (and larger flowers) to satisfy any taste. 

While periwinkles can grow upwards to two to three feet at maturity and get a bit leggy, most will be around fourteen to sixteen inches tall.  Each plant develops into a mounding specimen suitable for edging, as groundcover, mass planting, cascading down a wall and even in a hanging basket.  Periwinkles flourish in poor soils, so don’t feel the need to add any organic matter which would tend to make the soil retain excess moisture.  Also, when planting, plant them high and not deeper as you might some seedlings.  Culturally, this will help reduce the chances of root tot issues. 

While periwinkles have their challenges, they are fully worthwhile and gardeners should plant more!  For more information on all types of flowers suitable for our area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Gilman, E. F. & Howe, T. (2011) Catharanthus roseus Periwinkle, Madagascar Periwinkle.  The University of Floruida Extension Service, IFAS. 

Christman, S. (2012) Catharanthus roseus.  Floridata.com, Tallahassee, FL.

Caldwell, D. (2008) A Rainey Season Periwinkle? The University of Floruida Extension Service, IFAS – Collier County.

Dew of the sea

Did you know that rosemary is in the mint family?  Did you also know that the Latin name for rosemary means “dew of the sea”?  There are probably a few things that you didn’t know about rosemary, but  you do know what a great herb it is across the board.  Rosemary is a very different type of herb as it is actually a small shrub.  In fact, I have seen gardens where rosemary was sheared into interesting shapes that bring an ornamental quality to the landscape.  Can you incorporate rosemary into your landscape?

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is a small, hardy perennial evergreen shrub with small, narrow, spicy leaves on spindly upright stems.  In addition to the aromatic, needle-like gray-green foliage, small light blue/lavender or pink flowers appear in winter and spring.  Rosemary is a Mediterranean herb that is often used as a topiary, container plant, or landscape shrub.  Left to develop un-trimmed, rosemary can grow to six feet tall with a spread of four to five feet. There are many cultivars available including groundcover forms to choose from.   Standard rosemary can be clipped into a topiary of your liking by trimming every few weeks to encourage new, fragrant growth and to maintain a certain shape.   Keep in mind that rosemary is not just for the herb garden anymore!  Consider planting this hardy herb in the landscape in a full-sun area with well-drained soil and use it as a low hedge or specimen plant.  Regardless of where you plant it, every time you brush up against rosemary, that great appetizing and refreshing scent drifts into the air. 

Spot observations indicate that it is adaptable to Florida.  However, in our humid climate, rosemary is not as long-lived as you might think.  Accordingly, always have a supply of rooted cuttings ready to replace any specimens that have succumb.  Rosemary stem cuttings root readily so propagation is a breeze and tends to work better than starting from seed.

The fresh or dried mildly bitter-tasting leaves are the parts used in cooking.  Nutritionally speaking , rosemary is extremely high in iron, calcium, and Vitamin B6.

Whether you use rosemary specifically in herb gardens or slip them into niches in the landscape, inclusion of this edible ornamental makes for a more interesting and useful yard.  For more information on all types of herbs suitable to our area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Vegetable Varieties for Gardeners (2008) Cornell Cooperative Extension.

Stephens, J. M. (2003) Herbs in the Florida Garden.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Naylor, C. Everyone Should Grow Rosemary.  The University of Florida IFAS Extension Service in Leon County.

Friday, T. (2006) Rosemary is for remembrance.  The University of Florida IFAS Extension Service in Santa Rosa County.

Jean Meadows and Mary King (2015) Food Fare -Rosemary.  The University of Florida IFAS Extension Service in Sarasota County.

The root of the problem

Roots are major organs that are essential to tree health.  However, they are often overlooked as construction, foot traffic or other soil compaction issues permanently damage a tree.  Where are the roots anyway?  How far out do they extend so that damage can be avoided? Can we manage roots in an urban environment full of sidewalks and pavement?  Research may show some insight to this hidden underground world.

Traditionally, a typical tree root system illustration would show a central tap root penetrating deep into the soil with side roots and fine roots extending out in all directions to the edge of the branch reach.    Some research suggests that in fact taproots may be absent depending on the species and other conditions.  As an example, oaks may have a taproot while maples will not.  Some taproots are cut at planting and are absent.  Urban trees in compacted soil often do not have a taproot.  It was also found that side or lateral roots are situated well outside the drip line.  In fact, many trees were found to have a root spread of three times the spread of the branches with most of the fine roots found only in the top twelve inches of soil - many of these roots were found in the top two to three inches.  Research showed that a Southern magnolia, for instance, had roots out to 3.8 times the drip line.

So what are the implications for working around trees and planning for root issues?  Trees that may appear to be well protected can still be damaged because the roots go so far out beyond the drip line.  This could influence construction site work, foot traffic patterns around urban trees and other considerations.  Trees that appear fine today may show signs of decline and death in subsequent years.  Can you imagine what the tree you just planted will look like in thirty, forty or fifty years from now?  Will it interfere with a sidewalk, a driveway or underground utilities?  In brief, trees roots in urban areas can be managed with techniques such as root barriers, engineered/structural soil, channeling roots, etc.  Florida Certified Arborists are good resources for assistance with this effort and can be located at the Florida International Society of Arboriculture - http://www.floridaisa.org/.

Tread carefully around trees - their roots are essential for structural support and as organs to gather nutrients and water.  They must be protected and managed for the long-term health and safety of our urban forests. For more information on the best management practices for planting trees, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Gilman, E. F. (2014) Root growth on urban trees. The University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service, IFAS - http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/roots.shtml

Gilman, E. F. (2005) Planting Trees in Landscapes. http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/planting/rootgrowthintro.htm.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Gilman, E. F. (2011) Dispelling Misperceptions About Trees. The University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service, IFAS.

Gilman, E. F. (2011) Where Are Tree Roots?  The University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service, IFAS.

Gilman, E. F. Gilman, E. F. (2002) Site Evaluation Form for Selecting the Right Tree for Your Planting Site, the University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service.

Florida-friendly landscaping™ is for everyone

Our yards are merely small models of the outside environment.  The water we use, the fertilizers we apply, and the pesticides we spray have influences in and potentially outside our yards.  The plants we select may also contribute to how much we use the aforementioned inputs.  Our landscapes tend to change over time; especially as to what is the best way to manage your yard.  Does your yard need a Florida- Friendly  Landscaping™ makeover? 

The Florida-Friendly  Landscaping™ program is an overarching set of horticultural concepts that enhances the community as well as protects the natural environment.  An FFL yard uses the nine identified principles that make up a no-nonsense landscape: efficient irrigation & water conservation, mulching, recycle, attract wildlife, "right plant, right place", integrated pest management, fertilizing properly, reducing stormwater runoff, and shoreline stabilization.  Again, many of these concepts are just good common sense.  Outdoor water conservation is a basic especially now when local rainfall is limited.  Water resources, especially water used for irrigation, should be used intelligently and with some knowledge of the plants we are growing.  Use water only when your lawn or landscape needs watering.  Many lawn and landscapes get over-watered making them less drought tolerant or prone to disease.  Keeping in mind local watering restrictions, many plants do well with about three-quarters of an inch of water per application.  Rain barrels are also good ways to catch and hold water for later use.  Hand-in-hand with proper watering comes mulching.  This technique uses various materials including organic matter placed around plants to suppress weeds and conserve water.  Recycling in the landscape includes composting and "grass-cycling".  Composting takes various raw organic materials allowing them to breakdown into a more stable, soil-like substance. Good organic mulches include pine straw. shredded melaleuca (FloriMulch®) and pine bark.  Compost is great for mixing with and enhancing garden soil growing vegetable and bedding plants. These mulches help retain soil moisture and slowly-release nutrients.  Grass-cycling involves returning the nutrient-rich grass clippings back to the lawn to provide some of the fertilizer turfgrass requires.  Mow regularly so that no more than one-third of the grass blade is removed at any one mowing.  These grass clippings will not contribute to thatch.  

Attracting wildlife adds another great feature to our yards. It may include something simply beautiful like attracting butterflies.  Selecting the right butterfly plants and adding a water feature will attract these insects.  Birds will also enjoy new water sources, new trees for nesting areas and native wildlife food plants placed throughout the landscape. 

When we say "right plant, right place" we mean sensible selection of plant material using knowledge of the plants and preferred growing conditions.  For example, a shade-loving plant like many types of ferns may not do well in a full-sun site.  A plant that requires a somewhat drier environment may rot in a site regularly watered to excess. A tree that may grow up to sixty-feet tall and over one-hundred feet wide would not be a good choice planted right next to a house.  Consider using Florida native plants as well. Get to know your plant material and analyze your site’s environmental conditions before you plant. 

Integrated Pest Management or IPM is another important component of a FFL yard.  Instead of blindly applying a pesticide at an unknown pest, it is much better, both economically and environmentally, to identify the pest, determine if there are sufficient numbers to warrant a treatment, and then select a treatment that is least-toxic or non-toxic with pesticides used as a last resort.  We are not looking at total pest elimination, just suppression to acceptable levels.   

Fertilizer is another landscape input that is often misunderstood and misused.  Slow-release fertilizer feeds plants over a period of time and stays put longer.   (Don’t forget our County Fertilizer Ordinance -  http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/hort-fertilizer1.htm ) Fertilizers that are lower in Phosphorus are also recommended as our Florida soils generally already have plenty of this nutrient. Try to select plants that have low fertilizer needs.  When you fertilize, water and manage pests properly, the chances of residues contained in storm-water runoff are reduced as well.  Downspouts can direct water into planting areas instead of a paved surface.  Small berms and swales can divert water from running from your yard.  Last, but not least, protect the waterfront!   Whether you live on the harbor, river or a pond, use FFL principals to protect these water resources. 

In the same vein of FFL, I would also like to introduce our new Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Horticulture Program Assistant, Tom Becker.  Tom has been involved with Horticultural Extension work for most of his career ranging from Pennsylvania to Florida.  His expertise is in Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ and he has a wealth of information on plant selection, water conservation, cultural practices and landscape trouble-shooting, so please feel free to pick his brain!    You can contact Tom at our office at (941) 764-4351 or thomas.becker@charlottefl.com .    For more information on all types of gardening topics in Southwest Florida, please call our Master Gardener volunteers for gardening help on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.     I also want to direct you to our “ Master Gardener Speaker’s Bureau” at http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/2012%20Speakers%20Bureau%20Brochure.pdf  where subject matter presentations can be scheduled for your group or organization.

Resource:

The Florida Yards & Neighborhoods Handbook (2009) The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS. - http://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu/materials/FYN-Handbook-v1-2012.pdf