My Little Wars Games Have Been Entered

 

Carthaginian elephants with light skirmishers providing protection.
54mm HaT Industrie figures that I painted

Click on the pictures to enlarge. 

Double click to make them REALLY large

Yesterday I entered three games for the upcoming HMGS Midwest Little Wars convention. The show will be held from April 24 to 27, 2005 at the Sheraton Lisle Naperville hotel (3000 Warrenville Road, Lisle, IL). This is the same hotel venue as last year.

Hannibal and his retinue. These are metal figures from John Jenkins Designs.

I am running three 54mm Hannibal! games during the convention:

Thursday April 24, 2025    Scenario TBD

Friday April 25, 2025        Battle of Zama

Saturday April 26, 2025    Battle of Zama

Here is a link to the HMGS Little Wars convention web site where you can get more information. Game sign up begins on April1, 2025 at Noon CDT (Chicago time).

Little Wars 2025 link

As with my two previous 54mm convention games (Khartoum and Pickett's Charge), I hope to have three tables 6ft by 15ft running parallel to each other. The games at this convention and at Historicon in July 2025 will be the third part of the 54mm Big Game Trilogy that I have hosted over the past three years. After this year, I will retire the large 54mm games for a year of two and go back to hosting smaller 28mm games.

The first game on Thursday evening will feature a general encounter between Republican Roman and Carthaginian forces somewhere in Italy. The game will include elephants, of course, so it is not the recreation of any particular battle since Hannibal had lost all of his elephants while crossing the Alps.

The Friday and Saturday games will recreate my version of the Battle of Zama. The battle is to Hannibal as Waterloo was to Napoleon, a final defeat that followed a string of famous victories.

Preparations 

I was going to include a Roman town on one of the corner areas of the game tables, but I think that it might take up too much table space and interfere with the movement of troops. Instead, I will have several Italian farm houses set up on a corner of each of the two back tables in my game. I am also working on the construction of a Roman aqueduct that will span the entire width of the three game tables. The aqueduct will be set up on one of the table edges. I have five feet of aqueducts in various stages of completion so I have another six feet of structures to build from scratch.

My Roman army has three Roman legions and one Italian allies legion. I need to paint one more set of 32 figures to complete the Italian legion. Other than that, my painting of units is complete and I have shifted my time over to terrain building.

Two of the three units that comprise one Italian legion.
HaT 54mm figures that I painted recently.

I now have a bunch of Roman buildings in various states of construction that I probably will not need for either of the two conventions this year. What to do with them? My thought is to continue modeling 54mm buildings and over time, build a complete city that will fit on a 6ft by 12 ft table in my basement. This way I can add a few bits here and there over time and end up with something fantastic. This is sort of how a model railroader constructs his train layout.

A view of the town from across the river. You can see the "shells" of the aqueduct pieces
at the rear of the city. The black buildings are works in progress and need to be finished.

A view of the city from another direction.

Another view of the town forum. You can see the start of a basilica structure
(white foam core board) at the top end of the forum.

The carpenter's workshop 

Dockside in the town

The town forum or central square in the city.

The table mat is made by Cigar Box Battle Mats and these are a recent addition to my table top set up. The mat looks really great, but I wish that the company had the option to order it with grey stones rather than the earth tones used on this mat. Despite that, I like the mat because now I don't have to make city roads. I just lay all of my buildings on top of the mat.

I am considering creating a scenario called "Who Killed Julius Caesar?" that is based on the board game "Clue" (or "Cluedo" as it is known in the UK). I am working on some other ideas for skirmish style gaming events inside the town. The Gangs of Rome rules look a bit complicated for my taste so I will write my own Roman Skirmish Game Rules in the future. The idea is to have something that uses the many civilian figures that I have accumulated in recent years.

You can never have too many pictures of 54mm (1/32 scale) elephants. These were ones that I painted in 2024.

More later...

cc

AWI Skirmish Game Report

 

Stillwater was not very quiet today. We might have to call it The Stillwater Massacre
because so many British, Loyalists and Mohawk warriors died.

                                       Click on the pictures to enlarge

Last evening we invited two couples to our home for dinner and an AWI skirmish war game. None of them had ever played in a war game, but they knew about my hobby and they were all keen to give it a try. So I had five "newbies" and myself playing in the game. The scenario was a simple Indian/British/Loyalist raid on a patriot town, Stillwater,  in upstate New York near Saratoga.

I had my own set of skirmish rules "Croat Terror" that I adapted to the AWI (Croats = Indians; Prussians = British; Militia = Militia; Loyalists = Frei Corps, etc.). It looked easy enough, but then at the last minute (90 minutes before the arrival of the guests) I decided that even my easy to learn skirmish rules had too many charts and might overwhelm a newcomer to the hobby. I recall playing a Sword and Flame game for the first time and all of the charts made my head spin.

So I wrote a new set of skirmish rules on the fly, based on rolling only D6 dice. The rules fit on one side of an 8 x 5 inch index card. I put the rules on one side of the card and the individual personality traits and missions on the other side of the card. That's it!

Here is a picture of the  rules

By the way, if you click on the image of the rules they will enlarge sufficiently that they can be easily read. Feel free to use these rules.

As the game went on I decided to scrap the morale rules and forgot to use the card suit outcomes for the melees; if you had the high card in a one on one melee then the opponent was killed.

Each player had a particular mission to accomplish. I pasted their respective missions onto the back side of the index card. Here is an example:

I was Joseph Brant and I failed miserably in achieving my objectives. I captured two civilian prisoners, but then I forgot about the part about having minimal casualties. Thirteen out of twenty-four of my warriors were killed. I think that the tribe will be looking for a new chief. In the heat of the battle I got so caught up in shooting at the militia that I forgot about minimizing my casualties. Fog of war.

The cornfield was a bad place to be if you were an Indian warrior or a British regular.

The British commander, Major Payne, had a mission of finding the British spy in the town and escorting him to safety, back at the British camp. While I advised Major Payne to look for a church pastor, the good Major was standing next to the pastor and escorted the nearest civilian back to safety. I told the Major that he had carried off the wrong person and that he might need to go back and retrieve the correct person. Fog of war. The Major and I had a good laugh over that.

Who needs Fog of War rules when you can usually count on the players in the game to provide their own Fog of War.

Some Brunswick Jagers had the acumen to go and retrieve the pastor and bring him back to camp, so at least one player was paying attention. LOL.

The Brunswick Jaegers bring home the right man.

Everyone seemed to have a good time (and why wouldn't they?) and by the third turn they were starting to get a handle on how the rules worked. It was a good call on my part to write a simpler set of rules prior to the start of the game given that all of the players were new to war gaming. Everyone expressed an interest in coming back in the future and playing another war game.

Mission Accomplished.

AWI Skirmish Game Table Top Terrain

 

Colonial America terrain

                                                CLICK PICTURES TO ENLARGE

This weekend Mrs. Fritz has invited two couples to our house on Saturday to play in a war game that I will be hosting. Yes, you heard that right! She told me that in our 30 years of marriage she could not recall ever having played in one of my war games and that she wanted to give it a try. The other two couples have long been aware of my hobby and they were curious enough to want to try playing a game.

With that in mind, I reasoned that a skirmish style of game would be the best type of game to play and that the AWI (or American Revolution, as we call it in these parts) would provide the most fun. Everyone is familiar with the Minute Men and the Red Coats, etc. so they will have some context and connection to the period that doesn't requiring the level of explaining that something like Napoleon's or the Seven Years War would require.

So yesterday I cleared everything off of my two parallel game tables (6ft by 12ft and 5ft by 12ft) and set up some beautiful Colonial America terrain for my 28mm Fife & Drum Miniatures AWI figures. At first, I only set terrain up on the larger table and after viewing my work, I decided that it looked good. As long as I have a second table, I thought, why not use that one as well. So I ended up terra forming two game table.

After setting up the second table, I decided that I should also hang up the light blue felt "sky" material to form a background for the scene. I use light blue felt randomly sprayed with white paint to create the impression of clouds in the sky.

Here are some pictures of the game tables that I snapped last night before hitting the hay:

I used EVERY tree that I own in my collection to populate the table top.

The red house is modeled after one of the buildings on the Saratoga battlefield.
Ed Phillips made the model as a gift for me.

The Black Smithy in the local village of Stillwater

I haven't entirely settled on a scenario for the game, but it will be set in upstate New York during the Burgoyne/Saratoga campaign. The setting will allow me to use some Iroquois Indians in the game as British allies. I am getting a sort of Oriskany vibe from this for a scenario.

I am envisioning several companies of British regulars going either on a foraging expedition or they have heard that one of their spies is running loose and needs to be rescued before the Rebels/Colonists/Good Guys find the spy and invite him/her to a neck tie party. Likewise, the Americans are aware that there is a spy in their midst and they want to find that scoundrel before he/she delivers important information to the evil Red Coats.

A party of Iroquois scout ahead of the British column

Naturally there have to be some competing agendas within the commands for both sides. Perhaps the commander of the local militia has a beef to pick with the captain of the Continental relief force, undoubtedly over the affections of a woman.

The Iroquois would likely prefer to take some hostages and loot and perhaps burn down a farm house or two (payback for taking over their lands, clearing the land of trees, and general development of the land).  Of course, this might conflict with the British desire to get in and get out as quickly as possible.

All of these competing agendas should create a little bit of roll playing for the gamers and make the game experience more fun. Remember, non of these players have ever played in a war game before so I want the rules to be easy and the game to be fun.

Here are some pictures of the various family farmsteads around Stillwater:

The Brown Family farm

The town of Stillwater and a view of The Savage Swann Inn

The Purky Family farm

The Rose Family farm

The LeBlanc Family farm

The Enoch Poor Family farm

A view of the two AWI game tables.

As for the rules, I will be using my version of Woodland Wars by Tom Kelly. It is a playing card driven system and hand to hand combat is done using cards (high card wins the melee and the card's suit determines the outcome of the loss - Hearts = dead; Diamonds = wounded; Clubs = captured; Spades = flee and run away).

Each player will have two 12-figure units of soldiers and each of those units have two cards that identify them. All of the cards are placed into a separate card deck, shuffled, and randomly drawn from the deck. Each unit can do two things per turn (move, shoot, etc) and each card drawn represents a "phase", so it is conceivable that a unit might be able to shoot its muskets twice on the same turn. After all units have phased twice then the turn is over.

My recollection is that morale is done using a D12 die (there are 12 figures per unit) and so a player needs to roll a number that is less than or equal to the number of figures that remain in the unit. For example, a 12-figure unit of American militia lose two figures this turn, then they need a die roll of "10" or less in order to pass morale. There are only several modifiers positive and negative so as not to complicate things too much.

I am looking forward to hosting this game and seeing how things work out with people completely new to the sport of war gaming. There are two guests that I suspect will prove to be very adept and ruthless (in a good way) in their gaming style. This should be fun. After the game we will convene for dinner and happy talk.

Cheers,

Old Fritz

vv

Kenosha Civil War Museum & ACW War Gaming Days

 

My two game tables at the Kenosha Civil War Museum event.

CLICK ON PICTURES TO ENLARGE

Friday I traveled 30 minutes north of Schloss Fritz to Kenosha, Wisconsin Civil War Museum link, where I set up a smaller version of my Pickett's Charge ACW 54mm wargame. It took me about three hours on Thursday to take down the Antietam game on the home pitch and repack everything for the game show. Then on Friday, it took another three hours to set up the Pickett's Charge game. Needless to say I was completely knackered by Friday night.

Due to the limited number of tables available and a smaller gaming area, I had to reduce the size of the Pickett's Charge game from three parallel tables to only two parallel tables. Both tables measured 16ft long by 5ft wide with a 3ft wide aisle between the tables. I am used to using 6ft wide tables so I wasn't sure how well this might work out. With a smaller table area, I had to reduce the Confederate army down from two divisions to one, using only Pickett's division of three brigades. So I lost one-third of my usual table area and reduced my gaming forces by 50%. There would be room for three players per side rather than five or six players per side.

The Confederate starting position on the Emmitsburg Road table. Cemetery Ridge 
is the table on the other side of the aisle.

The Cemetery Ridge table, where the Union army was deployed, looking
across the aisle to the Emmitsburg Road table.

The Emmitsburg Road with the Codori Farm at the far end of the table.
Pickett's Division of three brigades are deployed in their stepping off position.

To my surprise, the game almost looked better using the two tables and half the number of figures that I used when I ran Pickett's Charge at Little Wars and Historicon in 2024. One of the tables would have the Emmitsburg Road and the Confederates starting position about 20-24 inches from the road. The other table represented Cemetery Ridge and it comprised mostly the Copse of Trees, The Angle and the Bryan Farm. Each side would have three brigades with 3 regiments in the Union brigades and 4 regiments in the Confederate brigades. I increased the number of artillery pieces in the Union army to compensate for having fewer than normal regiments. As an after thought, I added two more regiments to the Union defenders giving them 11 regiments compared 12 regiments for the Confederates.

The game played faster with the elimination of the third Seminary Ridge table. The Confederates no longer had to cross six feet of table width just to get to the Emmitsburg Road table. One Confederate brigade (Kemper) reached the road on Turn 1 and the brigades of Armistead and Garnett reached the road on Turn 2. The Confederates came under Union artillery fire from the get-go and by Turn 3, with most of them crossing the post and rail fences of the road, they were within small arms range. So things were happening at a faster pace than in my previous games.

Corner of the table vignette showing a Union medical field station.

Meade's HQ. Meade, Hancock and Warren discussing the day's events.
Several Iron Brigade soldiers are on guard duty.

A Union artillery battery of two 3-inch ordnance rifles

114th Pennsylvania Zouaves deploy behind breastworks.

Alonzo Cushing's battery of 3-inch rifles deployed in The Angle.

The Codori Farmhouse and barn at the end of the Emmitsburg Road.

We had four players in the game. I assigned three of them to command the three brigades in Pickett's Division. The fourth player commanded half of the Union forces and I commanded the other half.

The players picked up the rules right away and one of them found all of nuances (and loop holes) in my rules. For example, I had been telling players that they are better off standing and firing at the Union soldiers rather than charging home because the defender gets to fire off a volley at the incoming chargers. One of the players brought it to my attention that this shouldn't matter because in the sequence of play, the Union soldiers get to fire at the Confederates before the Confederates get an opportunity to fire back, So they are going to get fired at first regardless of whether they charge or stand and fire. In another instance, one of the Confederate players was going to charge into the flank of my Union regiment. I was certain that I must have gigged the unit getting hit in the flank, but I couldn't find it on my rule sheet. The player found the exact rule which stated "units charged in the flank or rear do not get to fire at the charge."

One rule that I plan to change involves the melee system. The Union soldiers get a melee hit when they roll a 5 or 6 on a D6 whereas the Confederates inflict a hit on a roll of a 4-5-6. This gives the Rebels a clear advantage in melee. I had this rule because I wanted the Confederates to have a chance to maybe sort of win the game, but this difference has proven to be too biased in their favor. (It's probably why it seems that the Confederates have been winning more of these games than they should). Therefore I will change melee hits to a 5 or 6 for both sides to balance things out.

It was a good game. Those sneaky Confederates attacked the Union left flank with two brigades (Kemper and Armistead) and avoided the Copse of Trees sector in the middle. I was commanding the Union brigades on this part of the table and I failed to notice that Armistead's brigade shifted to the right and joined Kemper's brigade in overwhelming the Union left flank by sheer numbers. They managed to get a complete break through of the Union line and cut off the key Baltimore Pike road behind Cemetery Ridge. While the Union right flank fended off Garnett's brigade, and the center at the Copse of Trees was secure by virtue of it not being attacked, it seemed to me that the Confederates had achieved an overwhelming victory on Cemetery Ridge (of course, I had to advise the winning Confederate commanders that the entire Union VI Corps was waiting for them on the other side of the ridge).

I like the way that this game played out and I think that I will continue to use the two table setup instead the three table set up whenever I run Pickett's Charge at a convention. I will also change the melee rule.

I have one more game scheduled tomorrow (Sunday February 23rd) and hopefully enough visitors arrive  so that all six of the games have players to play the game. I had a good time talking to visitors and curiosity seekers all day. A number of people were visiting the museum and were not aware that there were going to be some war games going on. They asked me lots of questions about where the soldier figures came from (I had a list of 5 or 6 companies that sell these plastic figures), the size of the figures (1/32 scale or 54mm), how many figures did I paint and how long did it take me (over 1,000 figures and one year of painting time), did I make all of the terrain (pretty much yes) and where did I find such colorful game mats (Cigar Box Battle Mats). There were also lots of questions about the size of the historical war gaming community in the USA (I gave them some information about HMGS and its satellite regional organizations). Other topics included GI Joe/Action Man size figures and Airfix HO figures (you would be surprised at how many people played with the HO figures in their youth). So all in all, it was a great day for me.

There are plans to hold this show at the museum next year, probably at the same time (last weekend of February) and I will definitely be coming back to host a game. Someone told me that we had about 40 people playing in the games and there were six games available for anyone interested in rolling dice.

After my game was over and all of the figures were put back into place, I had some time to roam around the museum for a look-see. I was in a hurry so tomorrow I hope to spend more time looking at the exhibits in more detail.

NOTICE:

I have lots of pictures of my Antietam game that I solo played this week and I plan to offer up one or two blog posts about that game in the coming week.

Battle of Antietam Game: Hooker's Attack in the Cornfield

 

My tabletop setup for the Antietam war game.

CLICK ON PICTURES TO ENLARGE

Yesterday I cleared the Ancients off of my game tables (that took about 2.5 hours) and set up the table (about 2 hours of set up time) for my ACW 54mm game featuring Hooker's attack through the Miller Cornfield.

I made a four minute video in which I take you for a tour around the battlefield tabletop. I have not included any video of the playing of the game, which could get rather boring to watch. Here is the You Tube link to the video, below:

My Antietam Game You Tube Link

I am using the infantry regiments that I painted for the Pickett's Charge game last year, but rather than using them as "regiments", they are representing "brigades" in both armies. For example, General Meade has three brigades in his division so there are three units of painted figures, each representing one of his brigades.

This set up gives me 9 brigades per side for the game. These can be divided into three brigades per side, each of which are commanded by a player. Thus there are three players per side in this game.

My plan is to play this as a solo game over the next two days and then I have to tear it all down and pack it away so that I can carry everything to Kenosha, Wisconsin  where I am hosting the game in a local Civil War museum. How cool is that!

Here is a picture of the game flyer for the convention. If you happen to be in the area on Saturday February 22nd or 23rd, the please feel free to stop in, see the museum and watch or play in some of the  Civil War games that will be hosted. I believe that there are six games scheduled. I will be hosting my game on both days.

I will be running my 54mm Pickett's Charge game that you may have seen at last year's Little Wars and Historicon conventions. It will be a smaller version of those games because there is only space for me to set up two 5ft by 18ft tables instead of the three 6ft by 20ft tables used at LW and Historicon. I will probably have only Pickett's division on the Confederate side versus a similar number of Union troops. I might be able to slip in an extra Confederate brigade if the table top area permits.

Here are several more pictures of the game table and terrain set up. I will play the game solo and probably post an after action report next week.

The Dunker Church lies at the intersection of the Hagerstown Pike (left) and the Smoketown Road (right).

The Dunker Church

Union artillery crew look down the Smoketown Road towards Dunker Church.

Union artillery battery positional view down the Hagerstown Pike. The Miller Cornfield is seen of the left.

The Smoketown Road leading up the the Dunker Church (white building) in the background.
The lefthand road is just a smaller local farmer's track.

The Miller Farm - the stepping off point for Hooker's attack.

I hope to see some of you in Kenosha this weekend.

Tutorial: Making Scratch Built Buildings

 

Four "city" Roman buildings that I have been constructing this week.
The figures are 1/30 scale King & Country civilians.

Click on pictures to enlarge your view

The past week has seen me in a flurry of miniature model construction as I have started making some of the buildings (and then some) for my Hannibal Punic Wars war games at Little Wars and Historicon this year. Surrounded by vast sheets of foam core board, balsa and bass wood, thick card stock and oceans of glue, I have finished three farm buildings and have a good start on four city or town buildings.

When I embark on making buildings for a new historical period, I like to start with something that is simple and easy to make (such as small farm buildings) before I tackle the more complicated buildings (such as city buildings). This gives me a feel for how to design the basic shapes of the building and how to assemble them together. The most basic building is a square box with some doors and windows cut out from the sides of the box.

My first building was a small Roman era farm house and a work shed. The shed consisted of four pieces of foam core board and a tile roof that I fashioned out of a piece of corrugated cardboard from a box that I received from an eBay seller. I like to save some of my boxes for future use in model building constructions. After I cut out the sides of the walls I line up the pieces to make sure that they fit together and then I pin them together with sewing pins. Once I am satisfied with the fit of the pieces, I glue them together using my hot glue gun. 

Sometimes I will use super glue to tack on a decorative piece of wood to the foam core wall. The picture below shows a horizontal cross piece at the top of the front of the shed. This is a piece of a coffee stirrer that a local coffee house chain donated to me. It covers the gap between the roof tiles and the wall. I found it easier to use super glue rather than the hot glue gun in this instance because it spreads evenly across the wood while the hot glue is "lumpier" in its application.

Work shed to use with my Roman farm. 
King & Country figures.

The next model that I made was a small farm house such as those that might be found in the Italian countryside. This was easy to build, but it had a few more complications than the basic shed. This time I needed to make a ridged roof and to cut out the windows and doors from the foam core. I glued pieces of fine wire mesh over the interior parts of the window. The doors and shutters were made from balsa wood that I scored with a wooden fondue skewer to simulate wood planks. The wood bits were then covered with wood stain. 

The sides of the building were partially slathered with a mix of wall board paste and paint and allowed to dry overnight. The next day I painted the buildings with a light grey chalk paint and then did some dry brushing with a lighter shade of grey. I used Plastruct terra cotta roof tile (in plastic sheets of material) to make the roof. A piece of round dowel rod was used to cover the gap on the ridge of the roof where the two sides of plastic tile sheets met.

A birds eye view of the smaller Roman farm house and work shed.
King & Country figures.

The Medium Farm House Construction

The medium sized farm house starts with a basic shell made from 3/16th inch or 1/4 inch black or white foam core board. The picture below shows some of the basic house "shells" that I made from foam core board. I keep a set of sketches for each shell so that I know how to make it again for another building without having to go through the process of deciding on which dimensions to use all over again.

Four of my basic building shells for my Roman buildings. These serve as 
templates for future buildings.

Walls and roof construction:

I cut out the walls and then figure out where I want to place all of the doors and windows. Doors are made out of balsa wood and glued to the inside part of the wall. I use a fondue skewer to "score" vertical lines to create wood planks and then give it a stain of dark walnut stain.

Thick balsa wood or thinner bass wood pieces are used to make the ridge pole of the house. Supporting beams extend from the walls of the house to the ridge pole to strengthen the ridge pole. The cross beams do not actually support the roof, but rather, they are placed to offer strength to the side walls, preventing them from pushing inward. These structural pieces also get a coating of walnut stain.

A view of the roof ridge pole, beams and braces that will support the roof tiles. You can also
see the bits of mesh screen that cover the windows from the inside of the house shell.
This is the medium farm house work in progress photo.

Applying the Mud to Create Stucco Walls

I mix up a pot of wall board paste and brown paint that I use for basing my soldier figures. The same goop or mud also serves as stucco on the walls of Roman buildings. I like to use the Red Devil Pre-Mixed Spackling Paste for this part and I buy large tubes of craft acrylic brown paint from Michaels' Stores. Below is a picture of the medium farm house after the application of the mud.

The next phase is to paint the walls of the building with "chalk paint". I use a medium grey as the base coat and then I dry brush a light grey chalk paint to pick out the texture of the wall board paste. 

Attaching the Roof 

After all of the exterior painting is finished I then turn my attention to attaching the roof tiles to the house. I will cut out a piece of cardboard the size of each half of the roof and glue them into place. This provides a sturdy base for the plastic roof tiles. The roof tiles come in plastic sheets that measure about 8-inches by 12-inches and it is a simple matter of measuring the tile sheet and cutting it with a box cutter knife. The tiles have been sprayed with a coat of primer prior to being glued to the roof and so I finish the painting of the tiles after they have been attached to the roof. The tiles are glued into place using my not glue gun and then I stick sewing pins through the plastic tile sheet and into the foam core board. I finally cut a length of round dowel rod and fit it into place where the plastic tiles join at the ridge pole. This simulates the tiles that would be placed horizontally across the peak of the roof to prevent rain water from seeping in under the vertical tiles.

The painting and dry brushing of the terra cotta colors are done after everything is attached in its place.

Here is a picture of the finished medium sized Roman farm house:

Medium sized Roman farm house (right) populated with King & Country 1/30 scale figures.

Next Up: Constructing City Buildings

Here is a preview of the first four city buildings that I have been working on this week. All of them are in the "work in progress" stage and I hope to get them painted and finished sometime next week. Stay tuned to this blog for pictures of the finished city buildings.

The models in the pictures represent one side of one street of my Roman city. I could have as many as 16 shop and town house buildings in the project. There will also be a Roman temple and maybe a forum and a bath house when I complete the project. There will definitely be an aqueduct running across the side of the game table.

One thought is to make only a few buildings for war gaming purposes. However, I am also considering making this an on-going project and adding a few more building here and there over the next several years. The city would cover a 6ft by 4ft table; or maybe even more over time.

Here are some inspirational pictures to help me through the Roman City Project.