For the sweetbreads, half-fill a pan with water, bring to the boil and add the peppercorns, juniper berries and chopped garlic. Reduce the heat to a simmer, add the sweetbread pieces and cook for ...

But great bistros do exist—you just need to know where to look. For each spot turning out soulless escargots, there are time ...

Sweetbreads are available from good butchers, but may need to be ordered in advance. Calves’ sweetbreads may come from European veal; if animal welfare is a concern, look for sweetbreads that ...